Year after year snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) perform reliably and well in Midwest gardens. Little wonder they rank high among top garden annuals. “Snaps” admittedly have some shortcomings, yet measure up amazingly well. They are clean-growing and neat, quite easy to raise, and have a long blooming season. A fine range of colors and forms is also available, offering us real garden value.
Although a tender perennial, this native of the mild Mediterranean regions is usually handled as an annual in our gardens. Seldom do we count on it for a second season of bloom, except in warmer areas where it survives winters with some protection. The generic name (pronounced “an-tihr-rye-num”) derives from the Greek meaning “snout-flower.” This unglamorous description fails to portray the interestingly shaped florets of modern varieties – sometimes frilled, ruffled, or even double. Florets open from the base of the spike upward to give an extended show of color, both in the garden and in cut flower arrangements.
Snapdragons Have Many Uses
Consider the versatility of snapdragons. We have the choice of varieties only a few inches tall on up to those over three feet in height. Most satisfactory and usable are those of medium stature (15 to 24 inches) . Place the very tallest kinds in the back of the border, or in other spots where height is needed. The intermediates and shorter kinds deserve choice locations in the middle or foreground of the border. Some of the uniform-growing medium and semi-dwarf strains are suitable for bedding, although they may not give quite the continuous mass effect we need for this type of planting. Snaps are at their best in informal borders or beds, in combination with other garden favorites. Use groupings here and there for color accents, and for needed contrast in form and height. Miniatures and dwarfs are charming subjects for the rock garden, and sometimes fill the bill as edging plants.
The tints and shades found in snapdragons are vivid yet subtle, with fine combining qualities. There is an excellent array of whites, yellows, pinks, reds and crimsons, as well as orchids, bronzes, and oranges to choose from. There are almost endless effective garden combinations using snapdragons. I am fond of medium pink snaps interplanted with blue salvia or with blue dephinium, larkspur, or platycodon. Try deep red kinds next to silvery-foliaged dusty miller. Ageratum is stunning with white, pastel pink and yellow snaps. Another striking combination is snow white snaps with red petunias. Use them generously among your hardy perennials. For the old-fashioned garden, a mixed planting of snapdragons alone is colorful and effective, and it’s hard to find varieties that clash. Many fine color blends are offered.
Rather than rob your display beds, why not include a row of snaps in the cutting garden? The vigorous, long-stemmed varieties are best for bouquets and container arrangements. Pick the spikes when a half-dozen or so florets have opened. More develop each day, and will be well colored if subjected to fairly good light. Snaps last well in water, but use of a commercial preservative is recommended. Don’t be surprised to find that the tips of spikes placed at an angle will all soon point upwards. For your winter pleasure, cut back and pot up a specimen plant or two from your garden in fall. They do fairly well in a cool, sunny south window.
Selecting Varieties
Much confusion exists concerning the proper classification and naming of various types of snapdragons. Try not to be baffled by it. Concentrate more on finding varieties which fit your needs with regard to color and height. Read descriptions carefully, consult your fellow gardeners for suggestions, and visit trial gardens in your area to judge performance first-hand.
Starting Your Plants
Although snapdragons self-sow generously if old flower spikes are not removed, the resultant seedlings usually give an unpleasing mixture. Consider producing your own plants, or buy from local growers which nowadays offer a good selection of varieties. Sowing seed directly into outdoor beds is hazardous, and the plants get off to a slow start. Plan to sow snap seed in late February or March, so that good sized plants can be set out when warm weather arrives.
Germinate snap seeds at 65-75 F degrees; the seedlings should be up in seven to ten days. Poor germination may be due to too fresh rather than too old or non-viable seed. Professional growers use the trick of putting their seed packets into a refrigerator for three days (40-45 F. – no higher or lower) before sowing to improve germination.
When germination is complete, move the flats to a cooler but sunny location with good ventilation. Transplant seedlings into flats (spaced 2×2 inches), pots or other suitable containers when they have their first or second set of true leaves. When they are several inches tall, top them just above the fourth node to induce branching. Grow cool (50 night, 60-65 degree days), and in full sun. Harden off in a cold frame for several weeks before planting-out time.
Where winters are not too severe, some gardeners like to start plants the previous summer. Sow seed in August, and space the plants out in the cold frame (4x4inches) where they are wintered over. Cover frames during severe weather, but ventilate whenever temperatures are above freezing. These well-started plants are transplanted into the garden when the soil is warm in spring, to give an early show of color.
Care in the Garden
Snapdragons thrive in rich mellow soil, yet perform creditably in less ideal situations. Use plenty of organic matter, and good drainage is essential. The pH range should be somewhere between 5.5 and 7.0; preferably near neutral. A summer mulch is highly beneficial to snaps. Water generously during periods of drought, but strive to keep moisture off the foliage. Give several light applications of a complete fertilizer during the season to promote thrifty growth.
Spacing should be as much as twelve inches for taller varieties, to as little as six inches for the smallest kinds. After transplanting into the garden, pinch back part of the shoots once more to give better branching and to minimize “flushes” of bloom. Cut back old stems, once they are bloomed out, to the main foliage mass; leaving these on is the quickest way to throw snaps out of flower. Some support may be needed on the tall stemmed varieties to keep them from breaking over. Watch for insects, most of which can easily be controlled with Malathion. Rust will be your worst disease problem, especially on varieties which are not rust resistant. Control with dustings of sulfur.
The plants you start in early spring should be flowering well by mid or late-June in the central Midwest region, and continue their lavish display of color until frost.
