In Grandmother’s day, columbines (aquilegia) were already prized in flower gardens. Then, as now, these old favorites were reliable perennials, providing airy gracefulness and fascinating color variations for the spring border. Modern, hybrids stand out from the less spectacular forms of yesteryear. Even so, some of the older types still have much to offer today. Columbines are easily grown and rank as worthy subjects for the Midwestern gardens. Botanical classification places them in the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae) The generic title, Aquilegia, is pronounced “ak-will-LEEJ-ee-uh.”
Culture of Columbines
Gardeners frequently ask. “What can I grow in those partially shaded problem areas?” Although columbines usually thrive in a sunny place, light shade is often preferred, especially in hot, dry places.
A light, sandy loam is considered best although almost any well-prepared garden soil will grow good columbines. Choose a well-drained location. Incorporate liberal quantities of organic matter (compost, leaf mold, rotted manure, or shredded peat) into the new bed, and work in deeply and thoroughly. Soil reaction should be neutral or slightly on the acid side.
Apply a light summer mulch to retain moisture, keep the soil cool, and hold down weeds. Columbines are winter-hardy. but several inches of winter mulch is desirable in colder areas. The mulch used should be loose and non-compacting, such as evergreen boughs, salt hay or fresh oak leaves. Never apply soft, quickly decaying materials like elm or, maple leaves which mat down and hold excess moisture around the crowns. A winter mulch is helpful in preventing heaving caused by alternate freezing and thawing. Remove the mulch in spring when growth is just commencing. If partially decomposed and not unsightly, leave in place and gently work into the soil to add organic matter.
Most perennials benefit front liberal waterings during periods of drought, and columbines are no exception. Aim at a moderately moist soil condition at all times; but avoid frequent, superficial sprinklings. When you water, use a soaker-hose or sprinkler to moisten the soil to a depth of eight to ten inches. Then, wait until the soil is on the dry side before watering again. Water early in the clay so the foliage has a chance to dry off before evening.
A light application of dry mixed fertilizer (such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4) in spring when the first leaves are pushing out will be beneficial. In regions where the soil is very thin, a second light application in early summer may be warranted. Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes for excessively lush growth and poor flowering.
Uses and Combinations
What better place could be found for columbines than the mixed border? Their soft, clear shades unobtrusively contribute a full measure of charm and interest to garden settings. Most types bloom for a few weeks in the mid-spring season (May-June), but several continue on as late as July and August. Most of the newer hybrids are offered in mixtures; and more often than not, the individual flowers are distinct bicolors. Many straight color varieties (non-mixtures) are also available. So, don’t worry too much about their combining qualities. Columbines are very much at home with such favorites as irises, davlilies, delphiniums, oriental poppies and bleeding hearts. Later in the season, the graceful foliage is not unwelcome in the border when the later-blooming perennials and annuals take over. Columbines range in height from less than 12 inches up to 2 1/2 to three feet; the modern long-spurred hybrids often produce airy foliage masses several feet in diameter.
For those who specialize in wild flower gardens, species columbines are a good bet. And, if you are so fortunate as to have a lightly wooded area, visualize columbines , along a winding path in spots with dappled shade. Here they are naturals with ferns, Virginia bluebells, pansies and violas, spring bulbs, coral bells, wild geraniums, shooting stars, trilliums, daylilies, cardinal flower, violets, meadow rue, and Phlox divaricata and subulata.
Perhaps you have a flower bed along the north side of a building or wall which is always a problem in your planning. With open sky and no trees nearby to reduce light, columbines may surprise you with their floriferousness in this location. Try them with hardy ferns, hostas, tuberous begonias, impatiens, violets and periwinkle.
Where Do I Get Plants?
Most perennial nurseries offer columbine plants in a selection of varieties. These may be set out in the garden, either in fall or early spring. For those who have the proper facilities, a large number of plants can be started at little cost from seeds. Germinate the seeds as early as possible in spring, either indoors or in the greenhouse in flats, or in the hotbed. Fair success can also be had by sowing the seed outside in lightly shaded seed beds in May. Damping-off of seedlings is a real problem. Therefore, sterilize the seeding medium where possible, treat seed before sowing with a protective fungicide and sow thinly.
Carefully transplant the young seedlings into the soil of a cold frame, or a well prepared bed outside, when the soil is warm. Space about six by six inches. Give good care all summer long: light shade is advised. Large, thrifty plants will be yours by transplanting time in fall. Don’t expect any blooms the first season, but they should flower well for you the following spring. Gently lift the plants, leaving as much soil around the roots as possible, and transplant to permanent locations. Space the larger growing hybrids 15 to 20 inches apart.
Many columbines, especially some of the newer strains, have the unfortunate habit of dying out after several years, particularly in poorly drained locations. Try to have a few plants coming along to replace those that perish. Old clumps can be divided in early spring to provide more plants, but this is not always too satisfactory. Columbines have another undesirable attribute. They are truly promiscuous self-seeders. And these seedlings may be much less attractive than their parents. Therefore, keep withered flowers picked off. This will also promote extended blooming.
Columbine blossoms hold tip well in cut-flower arrangements, and partially opened buds open normally. Harden the stems overnight in cool, deep eater before using. It’s always a temptation to remove considerable foliage to use with the flowers, but this seriously weakens the clumps.
Diseases and Pests
Columbines are relatively disease-and insect-free. Nevertheless, watch for the columbine leaf miner which eats its way through the interior of the leaf, leaving tell-tale white, winding “tunnels.” The columbine borer burrows down through stem tissues until it reaches the roots. Branches may wither and die, and the whole plant is weakened. Weekly dustings through the spring months with a commercial all-purpose garden dust is probably the simplest means of control. Be sure to get some of the dust onto the soil around the plants. For borer control, it helps to work up the soil thoroughly about the plants in early spring to kill eggs. Remove and destroy parts infested by either the borer or miner. Some authorities recommend sprayings with Malathion for their control. Occasionally insects such as aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs and various beetles find their way to your columbines. Several applications of malathion at weekly intervals will control these pests.
Should powdery mildew appear on the foliage, dust with sulfur (except during very hot weather). Crown rot or wilt is a fungus disease which some-times attacks columbines. Good drainage and cultivation of the soil around the crowns to speed up drying are aids in preventing this disorder.
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