Summary: Even though your property may be small, you can still select fruit trees to suit its size.
Did you know that you can select apple trees to suit the size of your home grounds in much the same way you would choose a thoroughbred puppy? With dogs the size at maturity goes according to breed, with fruit trees it depends on rootstock. Apple varieties are grafted on many different rootstocks each of which restricts the growth of the top to a varying degree. This is due to the limited range of the root growth and slow-moving sap.
==>> Read – One Fruit Tree and You’re an Orchardist
The pear has only one kind of dwarfing rootstock, but as many as 16 different kinds have been classified for the apple. They are known as Mailing rootstocks. Each of these types produces dwarf trees of a different size, ranging in graduated height from a very dwarf tree to a standard-sized tree.
Mailing Types
These Mailing rootstocks, named after the Mailing Research Station in England, are numbered from I to XVI, but not in any order as to size. Mailing IX. for example, is the most dwarf, producing an apple tree about 8 feet tall at maturity. On Mailing VII, a tree will grow over 10 feet tall; on Mailing I, 15 feet or more. Mailing V is somewhat smaller than I and II which produce semidwarf trees. Apples grafted on Mailing rootstocks X to XVI are close to standard size when fully grown. The height of the fun-grown tree is also influenced by the particular variety of apple grafted on the root, as well as by culture and soil.
With such a variation in rootstocks, you will need to be specific when you order, stating the apple variety and the numbered rootstock. Merely asking for a dwarf apple tree is no guarantee that you will get a true dwarf of the size you have in mind. If you want a true dwarf, ask for one of these varieties on Mailing IX rootstock: Baldwin, Delicious, Golden Delicious, Grimes, Jonathan or Rhode Island Greening. All of these do well; McIntosh does to some extent. If you want a semidwarf, specify Mailing rootstocks VII, III or IV. Order only from a reliable nursery – check out this site for more info on apples.
5 Places To Use Dwarf Fruit Trees
- Use them on the lawn like ornamental trees or shrubs but set them far enough from buildings to facilitate spraying.
- Dwarf fruit trees can accent a shrub border along a drive or pathway. Set them back from edge so passing cars do not brush branches
- Frame a garden vista with dwarf trees. A view can be emphasized by two trees at the head of a path leading to it.
- Plant them along a boundary. Lower brances need not be removed; trees gain support if these contact the ground.
- For an attractive corner planting, combine a dwarf fruit tree with a clump of white birches or low growing shrub.
Dwarf Pears
Pears are grafted on the roots of the quince, not on the flowering shrub but on the fruiting quince which has the dimensions of a small plum tree. Angers, a French variety of quince, has been often used. A well-grown dwarf pear tree is a good investment; planted in fertile soil and given proper care. it will be good for 50 years. Some of the varieties which have done well as dwarfs through the years are Duchesse d’Angouleme, Doyenne de Cornice. Beurre d’Anjou, Benue Bose, Flemish Beauty and Belle Lucrative.
Another method of dwarfing standard fruit trees is to confine the roots in a container. By restricting root development in this way the growth of the top can also be restricted in the same way that rootstock of a limited range restricts the growth of the top. Any kind of fruit tree may be dwarfed by confining the roots in a container. Only apples and pears can be obtained commercially on dwarfing roots; there are no dwarf peaches, plums or cherries on dwarfing roots.
Planting Dwarf Trees
Before planting a dwarf tree, prepare the soil by digging in plenty of well decomposed manure or compost, supplemented with bonemeal or superphosphate. Work this into the bottom of the hole. Space dwarf fruit trees 10 to 12 feet apart, the others 15 to 20 feet apart. When setting a tree in place, be sure that the graft union, indicated by a swelling low on the stein, is above soil level. If planted deeper, roots will start from the stem above the graft. The result will be a tali tree because the dwarfing effect will have been overcome and the dwarfing root smothered out. See the illustration on page 33.
A very dwarf fruit tree should have a support of some kind. Before planting, drive a heavy stake into the ground so the tree may be tied to it. Do not remove the lower branches of the tree. When they come in contact with the ground they will give the tree some support. Dwarf roots are close to the surface and have little spread or anchorage. Place a mulch of leaves or hay over the roots after planting to prevent surface freezing and drying.
Cross Pollination
Cross pollination is necessary for fruit setting. This can be accomplished by planting more than one variety in the same vicinity. Any two varieties will serve this purpose. Where there are many trees, it is good practice to include a variety known to be a good pollinator such as Delicious.
Pruning
Contrary to popular belief, dwarf apple and pear trees can stand considerable pruning, even when young. The primary purpose of spring pruning, or dormant pruning, is to develop good structural form. The main branches of the tree should be evenly distributed so that the load of fruit may be carried evenly without breaking branches or pulling the tree in one direction.
Upright shoots should be cut hack to those growing in an outward direction in order to spread the head of the tree and maintain some degree of openness in the center. Later, when bearing begins, the brunches will tend to spread with the weight of the fruit. Corrective pruning may then be necessary.
The object of summer pruning, in late June or early July, is to head hack any vigorous lateral branches springing from the main limbs. This serves to encourage fruit bud formation. Another stimulant to fruit bud formation is full sunlight.
by J McClain – 62929
