Hyacinths, tulips, daffodils and other bulbs that were potted in October and stored in a cold, dark place have developed enough roots so that they can be started into growth and forced into flower. Generally, it does not take more than ten to twelve weeks in cold storage for the bulbs to develop enough roots for successful forcing. After that the pots of bulbs can be started into growth at weekly intervals in order to have a succession of blooms over a longer period during the winter.
Do not place the pots of bulbs directly from cold storage to a warm, sunny place. Instead, start them off in a basement window where there is good light and moderate temperatures. After they have made good top growth and flower buds are forming, place them in a warmer room and a sunny location to complete their development. Aside from this, the only attention that they will require is watering. Never let the soil get dry; water generously.
Hyacinths need special treatment during the early stages of top growth. It is necessary to force the flower stalk out of the bulb before the foliage starts to grow. This can be accomplished by placing a paper cone over the flower pot until the flower stalk is well above the soil. The darkened condition created by the cone prevents the foliage from getting a head start on the flower stalk. If this is not done, the flower stalk is very apt to get wedged in between the leaves and fail to develop normally. Hyacinths also are improved by fertilizing while in the forcing stage. A liquid house plant fertilizer can be used when starting to “force” the bulbs and repeated applications can be made every two weeks.
The watering of hyacinths must be done very carefully so that no water wets the undeveloped flower buds, water will cripple or cause decay of the florets.