The naturalizing of daffodils is a delightful hobby for anyone who has a plot where the grass can remain uncut until the foliage has thoroughly ripened and disintegrated or disappeared and pulls away easily from the bulb.
If you are fortunate enough to have, in addition to open ground, some thin woodland where the sun can penetrate, striking effects can be created. You will be disappointed if you plant in dense shade. Evergreens, white birch or native shrubs form an ideal background for these lovely flowers.
Once planted, daffodils require little care other than mowing the grass and clearing out weeds and brush in July or August. Under these conditions, bulbs last longer and remain healthier than if grown in cultivated soil, where they multiply so rapidly that it is necessary to lift and divide them every third or fourth year. Otherwise, they become overcrowded and fail to bloom. Then all you can expect under these conditions is quantities of foliage.
Slow to Multiply
When planted in grass, daffodils multiply very slowly and are unable to spread, since they are held in check by the sod. I have counted as many as 25 blooms from what was originally one bulb. It is not advisable to lift and divide bulbs from a naturalized planting. Actually, tree roots, stones and heavy sod make it difficult. Furthermore, it takes several years for the sod to regain its natural effect.
My experience over the past 35 years with a collection of over 500 varieties indicates that both new and old varieties adapt themselves readily to naturalizing. It has been the opinion of many gardeners that the older varieties are daintier, hardier and more suitable for this than the new varieties which, in most cases, have larger flowers and longer stems.
Yet all our daffodils are descended from species which were mountain plants that had to endure extreme cold winds, as well as severe gales. Even the poetaz types are hardy. These are the result of crosses of the hardy poeticus with the tender polyanthus.
Thus they have the hardiness and fragrance of the poeticus and the flower cluster effect of the polyanthus types.
My original planting of daffodils began over 30 years ago and included many famous old time varieties. Among them are: Emperor, a yellow trumpet; Empress, a bicolor trumpet; Von Sion, a double trumpet; Mrs. Langtry; Sir Watkin; White Lady; Yellow Poppy, as well as other large cup varieties and the small-cupped Narcissus poeticus recurvus.
All these are still in a thriving condition, giving quantities of blooms each spring. With the exception of Emperor and Empress, they are all dainty flowers of exceptional charm. Mrs. Langtry, although old, is still a beauty. However, these have been superseded by better varieties, and many of the old-timers, as I like to call them, are not readily available today.
Twenty years ago I added, among others, the following: Actaca, a late pure white poeticus, still one of the best in the class; Firetail, an excellent small cup variety, with a red cup and white perianth (there are many larger and superior varieties of this type today); and John Evelyn, a famous large cup variety is still popular.
Others are Mrs. E. H. Krclage, a good white trumpet, smaller than some of the newer kinds, such as Mount Hood, and Thalia; with two to three exquisite white flowers on a stem that has been called the “orchid daffodil”. Thalia has been outstanding in my planting and is admired by everyone. These varieties are available today.
Ten years ago, many outstanding new varieties had become moderate enough in price so they could be naturalized in quantity. The following, among many others, were added to my collection: Duke of Windsor, Brookville and Lemon Cup, seedlings of the famous John Evelyn that have proved to be extremely vigorous and able to stand up well under adverse weather conditions; Aranjuez, a small cup that combines orange and yellow; and Beersheba, a white trumpet, still one of the best in its class.
Yet others are Fortune, an outstanding early large cup variety, with strong, tall stems and a large orange yellow cup; Geranium, a late poetaz, with five to six fragrant flowers on sturdy stems; and Mrs. R. 0. Back-house, the famous pink daffodil. In recent years I have added a number of new pink varieties, all seedlings of Mrs. R. 0. Backhouse, including Lady Bird, Rosy Sunrise and Siam.
Double Varieties
There are a large number of double daffodils in my planting. Most of these, like the old Orange Phoenix and Twink, are top heavy and fall down after heavy rain. Not so with Mary Copeland, probably the best double variety, and the beloved Daphne.
Daphne deserves special mention. A sweet scented pure white, remindful of gardenia, it blooms freely and stands up under all conditions. It should be planted in place of the old-time double white which is a shy bloomer under all conditions.
I have also used some of the wild jonquils, varieties N. jonquilla simplex and Campernelle and a number of the new hybrid jonquils. The wild jonquils are known by their rounder reed-shaped foliage and scented yellow flowers. The hybrid jonquils have the same yellow color and scent, but the fiat foliage of the other parent.
During the past two seasons, I have added over 100 present day novelties in small quantities of about 10 bulbs of each kind. They are planted intermittently all over the planting, among large drifts so that they do not give a spotty appearance.
Among these are some of the new Irish varieties including: Broghshane, a glorious giant white trumpet, a full 5%” in diameter; Bravura, a late Anall cup variety, pure white with a vivid red crown; and Bahram, a large flowered variety, with a yellow perianth and a vivid orange-red crown. I also have Cantatrice, considered the best pure white trumpet variety in existence; Galway, a glorious tall golden trumpet; Krakatoa, a large flowering variety, with golden yellow perianth and bright flaming, orange-red cup; and Royal Ramson, with a very large orange-red cup and buff perianth, a new color break in daffodils.
Daffodils should be planted as early as possible in the fall, but if necessary until ground freezes hard. I usually plant some bulbs very late in a shady place, planting them in deeply. These will flower long after others of the same variety have passed.
It is best to use separate varieties for naturalizing rather than mixtures. Results are much more effective. Also the white and yellow groups should be alternated with patches of, grass between the drifts. The old method of scattering the bulbs and planting them where they fall is the way to make the bulbs look as if they are growing wild. When planting in grass, it is a mistake to do any grading or to dig up spaces to make the drifts. This spoils the natural effect.
There are several methods used in planting the bulbs. A V-shaped cut can be made with a spade, the sod lifted out and the bulbs tucked beneath. Or a hole can be made with a grub hoe. On the other hand, one of the best methods is to use a crow bar. Thrust the bar into the ground several inches deep and push. back and forth, making a hole on top at least eight to 10 inches deep and four inches wide.
Have a pail of soil at hand with a good proportion of bonemeal in if, that is, a full cup or so to each pail. Place a sufficient amount of soil in the bottom of the hole in order to fill the narrow point. Then place the bulbs on it and cover with at least four inches of soil.
Bulbs should be planted about six to eight inches apart in the drifts. Those in the center of the drift should be six inches apart and those at the edges about eight inches apart. Place occasional bulbs a foot or so apart at the extreme outer edges. In some cases, the presence of tree roots and stones help to create irregular effects.
In arranging drifts, it is well to remember that most varieties of daffodils face south. During the past season, I noticed that bulbs planted in front of evergreens facing north faced north when they flowered.
I would avoid bargain lots of bulbs, especially any that have, been grown for cut flowers. It usually means that most of the foliage has been cut, with the result that it will take years to get the bulbs back to their full strength. The variety used most often by florists is King Alfred, a yellow trumpet with a tall stem that makes a good cut flower. Like some -of the doubles it is easily blown over by storms in a naturalized planting.
Cutting blooms does not hurt the bulbs, provided the foliage is not removed. The leaves should also not be mutilated or injured in any way during the ripening period. Removing seed pods after flowers fade helps a little, since the ripening of the seed takes some strength from the bulbs.
Daffodils have been favorite flowers for many years in Great Britain, Ireland and other European countries. They are the culture of spring’s first important flower.
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